I visited the Abuko Nature Reserve recently, and had a peaceful couple of hours enjoying this beautiful place so close to the chaos of Kombo. It is The Gambia’s most visited tourist attraction receiving approximately 33,000 visitors per year, although while I was there I only saw five other tourists. One interesting fact is that it is the nearest tropical forest to Europe.

I was particularly intrigued about this place, after learning about this area from Dave, who was a PCV in the early seventies, and worked with the Brewers. In 1967 Eddie Brewer was the acting wildlife officer, and when he visited the Lamin Stream area with his daughter, Stella, they saw the amazing richness of Gambian wildlife and flora. He realized the conservation importance of the stream running through Abuko, and made a request to the government to protect it. Abuko Nature Reserve was established in March 1968.

At the trail entrance there were many locals wanting me to hire them to be my guide. It took awhile to convince them that I wanted to wander on my own, that I would be “safe”, and did not need their assistance. Needless to say, they were very disappointed, but I value my solitude and was grateful to have time to myself to explore this reserve. 

Abuko Nature Reserve contains one of the few remaining intact examples of Gallery Forest in The Gambia. It is similar in structure to a rainforest, but the main difference is that it relies on surface water as its primary source of moisture, while a rainforest depends on precipitation. A Gallery Forest is characterised by evergreen forest, with a closed canopy and fairly open understorey. The canopy can grow to an excess of 100 feet. Gallery Forest has a limited habitat type, and is found only in Abuko, Pirang Forest Park and in narrow fringes along the River Gambia where the water is fresh.

At the beginning of the trail there is a loose leafed Guinea Savannah, and many tree trunks covered in mud deposited by tree ants. The evergreen forest path follows the course of the Lamin Stream, which covers about one third of the total area. Reserve resources are concentrated on maintaining the crooked bush trails, rest areas, establishing bird photo hides, and supporting the animal orphanage. The boundary fence is patrolled to prevent encroachment by people and cattle. 

There are a number of small pools, and the biggest is called the Bamboo Pool.  In and around the freshwater pond is the ideal location to spot crocodiles and birds, although I didn’t see any crocodiles. It was a beautiful clear day (a rarity) and the water lilies were a more welcome sight than any crocodile. 

The Darwin Initiative Project, is sponsored by the UK Government, and works with the Makasutu Wildlife Trust, which operates the Field Station for Biodiversity & Research. The Darwin Initiative aims to conserve the Earth’s biodiversity by helping those nations that have wide biodiversity, but lack the financial capacity to adequately protect their living natural resources. 

The Gambia project is the first Darwin Initiative to be financed in the West African sub-region, and is about enabling more of the local people here to understand and appreciate why it is important in their lives. The center offers training courses for a variety of people, covering different aspects of natural resource management and biodiversity. 

As I followed the trail it lead through thick, lush vegetation which then opened up to reveal bright Guinea Savannah, before going back into the dark jungle. I had to watch my steps, because there were protruding root systems from the huge tree trunks, where monkeys and birds were frocling in the foliage above. There also many green monkey families popping out of the brush along the trail. 

At the refreshment kiosk near the animal orphanage I purchased a soda. Unfortunately, I didn’t get to drink much of it, because I foolishly set in on the bench, and a green monkey promptly came over to investigate and spilled it. There are dozens of uncaged green monkeys begging for peanuts, but obviously will help themselves to whatever is available. 

Over 270 species of birds have been recorded from Abuko Nature Reserve which reflects the value of this small area. The reserve contains an intact pocket of gallery forest in which numerous forest dependent species occur. The chain of pools attract a tremendous variety of bird life , from the white-spotted pygmy rail to African fish eagles.

Abuko Nature Reserve provides a good introduction to the flora and fauna of The Gambia. Its unique nature allows the visitor to gain an insight into the biodiversity of The Gambia, both present and past.  The pools have Nile crocodiles and a large variety of fish species, and attract a wide variety of birds and mammals, especially during the dry season. 

Within the extension to the reserve is grassland and Guinea Savannah much enjoyed by many Savannah bird species and mammals. Despite its small areas the reserve is also home to a wide diversity of mammals, birds and invertebrates. This is due primarily to its variety of habitat types coupled with the fact that the area was protected in a relatively intact state.

At the animal orphanage there were vultures and hyenas in enclosures. The Department of Parks and Wildlife Management has an ongoing program of confiscating captive wild animals. These animals are kept at the orphanage until they are ready to be released back into their natural habitat.

There is a captive breeding program for the spotted hyenas, and some of them have been tamed for the tourist to interact with. There were two new pups and about eight hyenas in additional enclosures.

I really enjoyed my time at the Abuko Nature Reserve, and was pleasantly surprised by the lack of tourists. The online reviews of the reserve were not very positive, but after living in The Gambia and understanding the lack of resources, I think the staff does an excellent job maintaining this special place.