My host family here in Farafenni consists of my mom Fatou Dibba, her daughter Fatou Manne, granddaughter Fatima, granddaughter Arohee, and grandson Mustapha. The terminology Peace Corps uses for our host families is more appropriate for a recent college graduate (the majority of PCVs), than a senior citizen like me. Fatou Dibba travels frequently to Kombo, where her husband, older children, and more grandchildren live. Fatou Manne is the family chef, helps me is so many ways because she is fluent in English, and allows me “Nana” time with beautiful Fatima.

My host family shares a large compound with several other families, consisting of husbands, co-wives, and many children. Gambians are very cooperative in their parenting style, reminiscent of how we raised our children, in the backwoods of Northern California, in the 70s. The school age children are responsible for getting themselves to school on time, doing their homework, and my host siblings are very dedicated students. Fatou Manne and Mustapha both have excellent English, which has been a lifesaver when I need to communicate something complicated, and Mustapha enjoys writing stories. The younger kids have free range of the our compound, and can visit their friends at will. If a child gets out of line, there are many available to correct them, or give support if needed. These kids are very resourceful in their daily activities, and have great imaginations.

A couple of weeks ago, one family in the compound opened a bitikoo (a convenience store), next to our gate. The bitikoo has small quantities of everyday necessities, and stocks fresh baked bread for preparing breakfast sandwiches, the Gambian equivalent of fast food, to eat on the go. This bitikoo will be an additional source of income for one of our compound families, and a benefit for the neighborhood, saving the women a trip to the main market area. It is also becoming the place to socialize, and supervise the children moving freely between compounds.

The compound is a busy, happy space, with the women and girls doing chores, children playing, and men relaxing on the benteno (a raised concrete platform). The benteno is under a huge mango tree, and is the communal living room. It is the place to gather for daily prayers, relax during the heat of the day, and socialize during the evening. It is important when you enter a compound, to visit the benteno, and spend time greeting everyone. The greeting ritual is essential for good relationships in the Islamic culture.

Our compound has 3 row houses, surrounding the courtyard, with the benteno in the center, and the entrance gate is on the fourth side. The row house I live in has four suites, each with a similar layout: a large main room, two smaller rooms, and a small backyard. The row house across the courtyard from mine, has two suites, each with three rooms, backyards, and one yard has a productive grapefruit tree. The third row house has two suites, with only two rooms each, and this is where the teenage boys live. There is also a building under construction, but I am not sure what the plan for that is yet. My host mom cooks our meals in her backyard, and we eat inside her main room. I currently just take lunch with my host family, preparing my own breakfast and dinner.

The other families in my compound cook in multiple places, usually outside, sometimes in their backyard, or during the rainy season in the cooking/storage shed. Each family will prepare a food bowl to share, and eat outside together during the dry season. If someone arrives at meal times, they are always invited to share the food bowls, but it is also OK for the neighborhood children to hang out waiting for their friends to finish their meal, before play time can begin.

We have good clean water provided by the city, but unfortunately it is not always available. The families can still draw water by hand from the old well, when the city water is not working. There is a coop for the laying hens that roam around, but since we have a gated compound, the goats, sheep, and donkeys can’t enter to make mischief and leave their messes. Gambians have a great sense of humor, find pleasure socializing while preforming the daily tasks necessary to manage life in this harsh environment.

The families in my compound are fairly affluent by African standards, with the ability to purchase their food, rather than having to depend upon what they can grow. They have nice furniture in their homes, refrigerators, TV, and are always listening to the portable radios. Most adults have cell phones, to stay connected to far away family, and it is common to see them with necklaces of earphones, so they can listen to music. I am happy to share my WiFi code with them, so they can use the internet for fun and school work. It’s a very interesting mix of traditional practices and modern conveniences.

I am grateful to my wonderful host family and everyone in the compound, who are helping me assimilate into this the fascinating and alluring culture.